The ties that bind

IT is famous as the birthplace of football icon Cristiano Ronaldo but Portugal’s Madeira Island has a lot more to offer than good looking, talented sport stars, or so I’ve come to appreciate.

The last time I visited was almost 20 years ago and to say it’s changed is an understatement. This once-untouched Portuguese archipelago — recently voted Europe’s Leading Island Destination in the World Travel Awards — is the island of my ancestors.

While holding a special place in my heart, people all around the world are now discovering the gem that is the pearl of the Atlantic.

Visiting in July, summer is in full swing and the island comes alive with festivals and tourists aplenty but despite it being peak season, don’t let it scare you; as busy as it is, you can also find peace and tranquillity in abundance.

The island has something for everyone, whether it’s adventure, relaxation, romance, nightlife, gastronomy, history, culture or scenery — it’s all there wrapped up in the most picturesque package.

Staying at Enotel Baia in the beachside village of Ponta do Sol (sun point), this quaint hotel with pool and restaurant was the perfect spot to lay our weary heads and at $75 per person per night it was a steal.

THE BEACHSIDE VILLAGE OF PONTA DO SOL AND ENOTEL BAIA

With views of the Atlantic Ocean and pebble beach, our room was lovely, clean and huge but with so much to see and do, we spent very little time enjoying its facilities.

Having not been back for such a long time, there was a lot of catching up to do. And with only two weeks to do it in, we crammed as much as we could in our tight schedule.

First on the agenda was attending one of the many village festivals and, for us, the Madalena do Mar’s (Madeleine of the Sea) Banana Festival was the first cab off the rank.

The beautiful seaside village known for its banana plantations celebrates them in all their glory.

THE PICTURESQUE VISTA FROM MY GRANDMOTHER’S HOME IN MADALENA DO MAR

With two nights of partying (Ibiza who?) until the wee hours of the morning (think sunrise and breakfast on the beach) and concluding with some folk dancing,traditional music and the judging of the best pick (bananas) of the bunch, it’s a festival not to be missed.

While summer is festival season, there’s much more to Madeira than just this – you can eat and drink well for as little as €6. Traditional must-haves include a poncha (rum mixed with honey, sugar, lemon rind and different fruit juices) at Taberna da Poncha in the village of Serra de Agua and trying an espetada with milho frito and bolo do caco (skewered beef pieces served with fried polenta and flat bread) at Restaurante O Polar.

Other foods to try should also include lapas grelhadas (grilled limpets) at Bar Senhora Maria in Madalena do Mar, a picado (small pieces of meat served in a gravy with chips) at the Beer Garden, arroz de marisco (seafood risotto) at Restaurante Preia Mar, a caldeira (seafood stew) at Restaurante a Poita, tapas at The Old Pharmacy and sip cocktails as you watch the sunset at Zion Project and Maktub.

As for what to see and do, the best way to see the island is to hire a car or your own private driver so you don’t miss a thing.

Stops should include the Gabo Girao — the world’s second-highest sea cliff and Europe’s highest — the natural pools of Porto Moniz and the charming village of Santana where triangular thatched buildings were once homes to locals.

Enjoy the Atlantic by hopping on a fishing charter or, better yet, hire a boat, grab some locals, catch your own and enjoy a seafood lunch on the beach — it doesn’t get any fresher than that.

Fancy a game of soccer? Watch teams Maritimo and Nacional playing in the premier league at the Estádio da Madeira.

Or if you want to chill and be pampered, a day at the Spa Sacchurum is essential.

Wander through the island’s capital of Funchal and visit the marina, Mercado do Lavradores (fresh food markets) and Zona Velha (Old Zone) to see the best of the coolest spot in the city.

STROLL THROUGH THE PICO DOS BARCELOS FOR A PANORAMIC VIEW OF FUNCHAL

Arty and tightly packed streets, this once-forgotten area has been transformed into the city’s nightlife epicentre with new and imaginative bars, restaurants and hostels.

If you want to island hop, do it on the Lobo Marinho cruise ship and visit neighbouring Porto Santo for crystal-clear waters and sandy beaches where you can sit back and relax while watching the world go by.

Madeira was claimed by Portuguese sailors in 1419 and I understand why they stayed — if not for the hot footballers, then for everything else this beauty has to offer — it’s a pearler.

Originally published in November 2017 in  Luxury Lifestyle Magazine by Community News

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